Want to know how to sew a kids skirt without fuss? You need light fabric, two straight seams and a casing for elastic. It’s a beginner project you can finish in an afternoon.
This skirt is one project in our guide on how to sew kids clothes.
| Item | Value |
|---|---|
| Fabric width (standard fullness) | Waist measurement multiplied by 2 |
| Hem allowance | 1 inch added to length |
| Casing allowance | 1.5 inch added to length |
| Elastic width | ¾” or 1″ |
| Elastic length | 2 inches smaller than the waist measurement |
| Opening left in the casing | 4 inch |
These figures come from two sewing tutorials, Ageberry and Heather Handmade. They are one maker’s choices and can change, so check the source before you rely on them.
What you need before you start
A gathered elastic-waist skirt uses very little, and you don’t need a paper pattern. You cut rectangles from measurements instead.
- Lightweight woven fabric, such as cotton lawn or a soft quilting cotton
- Soft elastic, ¾” or 1″ wide
- Matching thread and a sewing machine
- A safety pin for threading the elastic
- Pins, an iron, a tape measure and fabric scissors
Ageberry’s tutorial says lightweight fabric with some drape works best: “The best fabrics for gathered skirts are lightweight and have some drape to them.” Stiff or heavy cloth bunches up at the waist and can look like a parachute.
If you’re still choosing, our guide to the best fabric for kids clothes explains what suits small bodies, washing and play. Wash and dry the fabric as you intend to launder the finished skirt, then press before cutting to reduce later shrinkage.
How to measure and cut
You only need two measurements from your child: the waist and the length. Measure the waist where the skirt will sit, and measure length from there down to where you want the hem.
For width, Ageberry gives a simple rule: “To ensure your skirt has the right amount of fullness, the general rule of thumb is to multiply your waist measurement by 2.” For a less full skirt you can multiply by 1.5, and for a very full, twirly skirt you can multiply by 3.
Heather Handmade adds allowances to the length: add 1 inch for the hem and 1.5 inch for the casing at the top. So your cut length is the skirt length plus those two allowances.
- Measure the waist, multiply it by your chosen fullness, then add seam allowances for each panel’s side edges.
- Measure the skirt length and add the hem and casing allowances.
- Mark a rectangle of that size on the fabric, keeping it square to the grain.
- Cut it as one wide piece, or as two equal panels if your fabric is narrow.
Twirl comes from the width, not the length. A child who loves spinning will enjoy the full multiplier, while a younger child who is still learning to walk and run may do better with the lighter one.
How to sew a kids skirt, step by step
Work with the right sides of the fabric together until the final steps. Take your time pressing, because a crisp fold makes every later seam easier.
- Join the side seam. Pin the short edges of the rectangle together and sew. If you cut two panels, sew both side seams.
- Finish the raw edges. Use a zigzag stitch or a serger so the seam doesn’t fray in the wash.
- Press the seam open. Lay the skirt flat so the seam lines up neatly.
- Fold and press the waist casing. Fold the top edge toward the wrong side, then fold again to make a casing wide enough for the elastic, pressing each fold, as shown in Heather Handmade.
- Stitch the casing. Heather Handmade sews the casing in place 1.25 inch from the top.
- Leave a gap. Stop sewing and leave a 4 inch hole to insert the elastic.
Backstitch at both ends of the casing stitching so the opening doesn’t tear when you pull the elastic through. Then turn to the hem, which you can sew before or after the elastic.
For the hem, Heather Handmade folds the edge up, then folds it again, and sews it close to the bottom. The second fold hides the raw edge, so the inside of the skirt stays tidy against your child’s legs.
Press the hem well before you stitch, and use plenty of pins on curved or slippery fabric. Sew slowly near the side seam, where the layers are thickest. If the machine struggles, stop sewing before lifting the presser foot to reposition the fabric. Check the finished length against your child while they stand still, then adjust if you need to.
Adding the elastic
Elastic that is too tight leaves marks on small tummies, and elastic that is too loose lets the skirt slip. Heather Handmade says to cut the elastic to 2 inches smaller than the actual waist measurement.
As for width, Ageberry says: “I think ¾” or 1″ elastic is the perfect width for a gathered skirt.” Choose soft elastic that fits comfortably; narrower elastic is not necessarily softer.
- Clip a safety pin to one end of the elastic.
- Push the pin into the casing opening and work it all the way around.
- Hold the loose end so it doesn’t slip inside the casing.
- Pull both ends out through the opening and overlap them.
- Try the skirt on your child, or hold the elastic around their waist, to check the fit.
- Stitch the overlapped ends together securely, then let the elastic slip back inside.
- Sew the opening closed and spread the gathers evenly.
Before closing the opening, let your child sit, bend and jump in the skirt. If the waist feels snug, restitch the elastic a little looser now, because it is hard to change later.
Making it your own
Once you have made one, the same method gives you endless variations. Change the fabric, the length or the fullness, and you have a new skirt.
- Pick a border print and place the pattern along the hem.
- Go longer for a midi skirt, or shorter for a play skirt.
- For a gathered ruffle, apply your chosen fullness multiplier to the skirt’s hem circumference rather than the waist measurement.
- Sew a matching skirt in a leftover fabric for a doll or a sibling.
If you’d like a smaller project to practise on first, our guide on how to sew a baby romper uses many of the same skills.
An elastic waist may accommodate some growth, but the skirt’s length also affects how long it fits. When the skirt gets short, you can unpick the hem and fold it down to gain a little length.
Frequently asked questions
How much fabric do I need for a kids skirt?
Show answer
Multiply the waist measurement by 2 for width, and add 1 inch for the hem and 1.5 inch for the casing to the length. Use 1.5 for a less full skirt or 3 for a very full one, per the Ageberry and Heather Handmade tutorials.
What elastic width should I use?
Show answer
Ageberry suggests ¾” or 1″ elastic for a gathered skirt. Cut it 2 inches smaller than the waist measurement, as Heather Handmade does.
Can a beginner sew this skirt?
Show answer
Yes. Heather Handmade describes an elastic waist skirt as a great beginner sewing project. It needs only straight seams and a simple casing.
What fabric is best for a gathered skirt?
Show answer
Ageberry recommends lightweight fabric with some drape, such as cotton lawn. Very stretchy fabrics are best avoided.
